Tramping at last

A Kiwi would be quite surprised at the sight of a hiking trail such as the ones I've hiked back in the states. The trail would be littered with large rocks, cris-crossed with slippery roots ready to trip a weary foot without warning. No switchbacks would sweep gently across the face of the mountain, bringing a hiker gradually up to a peak with vistas of tranquil fields and rolling green hills. Oh no- the surprised New Zealander would find the rugged, craggy mountainside staring him in the face, not quite conquered by the winding path his feet would have to follow.

I tried my luck at one of New Zealand's famous Great Walks, the Heaphy Track. The handful of tramps that fall into this category are highly maintained by the Department of Conservation and, in my mind, fall more into the category of hiking superhighways than trails. The wide gravel path and steady grade weren't exactly the rugged outdoor experience I had hoped for, although the two days of heavy rain sure made me appreciate the luxury of the DOC huts along my route. Every Great Walk has a multitude of huts where hikers can stay at night that include much more than the average Appalacian Trail lean-to.

In my travels, I met quite a few other friendly travelers (despite the weather). A couple of Israeli girls had just finished another Great Walk in record time and aimed to do the same with the Heaphy Track, without even a day's rest in-between. A German couple gave me recommendations on whale-watching on the east coast- something I really hope to do in the next week- and a jovial group of 5 Kiwis offered a "cup o' tea?" in one of the huts. Two girls from Minnesota shared a hut with me on my final night, and it turns out they had just gotten back from working in Antarctica! They both worked in the kitchen at McMurdo Station, the exact job I had been offered back in July, and were good friends with one of my co-workers in Alaska! How funny.

Back at the hostel in Takaka, I have aired out my soggy gear and reconnected with my new American friend I met here before I went tramping. She and I enjoyed a sunny afternoon exploring the area on Wednesday, doing some short hikes and enjoying iced espressos on-board Jacques Cousteau's former barge. It now rests in a nearby harbor in the form of a houseboat-made-coffe shop. Tomorrow will bring some attempts at bread-making and maybe another visit to the beach. I haven't seen the ocean in three whole days and I think that's a record since I arrived here.